AN AUSSIE IN GERMANY
LIFE EVENTS AS AN AUSSIE SETTLES IN TO LIVING AND WORKING IN GERMANY AND TRAVELLING AROUND EUROPE
26.11.09
Did Darwin Kill God?
18.11.09
Musing On The Absurd.
4.11.09
Dancing With Vikings
3.9.09
Un-Made In Germany (Part 2 T-Home Alone)
8.8.09
Made In Germany (Part 1 - T-Home Alone)
When I was a youngster growing up in semi-rural Australia in the late 60’s I was privileged to enjoy a relatively serene country lifestyle, surrounded by forests, fields and meandering creeks. Nothing was overly complicated on our 5 acre lot, we grew potatoes in the Winter, hay in the Summer and our 2 resident cows, named Raspberry and Strawberry, both lived long, fat, indulgent lives as an integral part of our family. No one ever had the heart to send them to the local market and they eventually succumbed to the rigours of old age and a visit from the local vet.
Life was abundant in the simple pleasures a young lad can find in exploring his own backyard. From the prickle of sun dried hay stubble under bare feet as you played cricket on a badly mown cricket pitch in the middle of the paddock, to the knee deep mud that would suck the oversized gumboots from your feet when the rains came and nearby dams would burst their banks in torrents of muddy brown water. A local dam bursting was a heaven-sent opportunity to break out the toy boats, and for that matter anything else to hand that by ones own highly evolved reckoning, might float long enough to provide some entertainment.
Lying spread-eagle on your trusty air mattress and having cast yourself upon the raging waters you skimmed the surface of the world and would soon be none other than Thor Heyerdahl on his Kon-Tiki Ra with his trusty boatmen from Lake Titicaca on their epic journey to fame. Anything was possible.
Thor was a 55 year old master Nordic seaman and boat builder facing the perils of the wide open Atlantic with a seasoned crew and the eyes of the world upon him. I was a 9 year old, alone on an air mattress, cast adrift in a sea of liquefied cow dung, plunging helplessly towards a 2 metre deep flooded creek filled with blackberry and gorse bushes. Now I ask you, discerning reader, which of us was the bravest?
Sometimes the air mattress would run aground on the hummock of a rabbit warren and send you sprawling into the muck and mire. Blinded by mud and spitting gritty residue from your mouth you remained resolute. This however was par for the course for any truly well seasoned adventurer of the day. Undeterred, you found yourself running wildly along with flailing rubber legs (you should try running in gumboots in the mud) beside the turgid rapids, disengaging any other wayward craft from the taller tussocks of grass that remained above water level and frantically dodging the patches of Scottish thistles enroute. Only the looming barbed wire fence ahead formed any kind of serious barrier to the race challenge. This was the America’s Cup of childhood boating. Truly a bonafide country regatta powered by knobbly knees under baggy, hand-me-down shorts. My simple world continued to turn, undaunted by flood or drought. Words that haunt our everyday lives in modern times like Financial Crisis, Swine Flu and Climate Change would have made admirable names for these ships of the upper paddocks. In short, life was good and uncomplicated and all things in the universe had a place and a stability that I still fondly reminisce about to this day.
There was however, in this near perfect universe always one yard stick that you could measure your world and self esteem by. One thing that set you apart from all the others around you, something that said ,“Class“, something that said, „Style“ and something that said that you knew what quality and taste were all about. This small but simple item was nothing more than an embossing or a sticker that simply said, „ Made In Germany“. It said, in terms not to be argued with, that the item you held was of the highest quality, perfectly engineered and most importantly when keeping up with the Jones’s, expensive! „Made In China“ or „Made In Taiwan“ really just did not cut the mustard. Even „Made in Australia“ was completely lacklustre and more liable to draw snorts of contempt from your peers than the „Ooohs and Ahhhs“, that would ensue from something German designed and manufactured.
My mother was clearly a woman of discerning taste as she drove a 1957 VW Beetle. This miracle of modern German engineering even had real tubeless tyres and was capable of accelerating from zero to 30 mph in 7.5 seconds and completing the quarter-mile in 23.8 seconds at a mere 52.5 mph. The top speed? Just 68 mph. Bavarian Beetle BAVOOOM!!! Alright so it wasn’t exactly a Porsche, and with its recent modification of a light truck gearbox it would shudder away from standstill, like an unbalanced load in Mum’s old spin dryer, till it reached a cruising speed of 20 mph, when a smoother transition of power from its vastly superior 1200cc motor kicked in. As kids we adored the character of this car and all of its shortcomings. I still recall the car registration, GSS-162, good ol’ Go, Shudder, Stop-162!! A few years later on she purchased a TS1600 Type 3 fastback and this put Mum clearly and beyond all doubt in the same league as Michael Schumacher. She would forever after, in my eyes, be seen as a woman of impeccable style and unerring chic.
This was what German engineering and the true pursuit of perfectionism was all about, and to a very impressionable youngster it was the epitome of my dreams. Dashing and fashionable, it had the panache to hoist my self esteem to undreamed of stratospheric heights. It was after all German designed and built! My mother as a life long journalist would spend the entire of her reporting career relying on the quality of German designed biros. Laszlo Biro was a very clever Hungarian and was indisputably responsible for the invention of the ball point pen but it took the Germans to truly perfect the art. Staedtdler, Stabilio, Rotring, Shaeffer to name but a few. Adler pens and typewriters were also an industry standard reknown for their durabilty and style.
You can only hope to imagine the absolute sheer delight and sense of pride that engulfed me when on one memorable Christmas morning in 1969 when I opened a smallish present from my uncle to find inside a glistening chrome Hohner Marine Band Harmonica. Staring me in the face and looming larger than a Broadway headline banner were those goose bump words, „Made In Germany.“ If all my Christmases could have come at once then this was most assuredly it. I stood transfixed and speechless. Eyes bugged. Heart racing. Mesmerised.
I was not now just any 9 year old countryfied lad from down under, I was now a man of the world with real means, undeniable good taste and in no few years I would no doubt take over the world. The first few notes that I blew were to my ears nothing short of the sweet notes that had issued forth from the heraldic trumpet of Gabrielle. Pure resonance, perfect pitch and worthy of an appearance at any Royal Command Performance. With this superb piece of equipment in my quivering palm, honed from centuries of Germanic craftsmanship and knowhow I would assuredly be playing alongside Larry Adler and Max Geldray on the next series of the Goon Show. Unbounded enthusiasm effused my every thought. Little doubt my family failed on that gratifyingly exalted day to hear the true beauty of my celestial tooting, but I cared little, for I was alone in a world of dreams as I was eventually exiled to the garden to continue my solo performance. By punk standards I was a virtuoso. Consumed by dreams of irrefutable world dominance, my only audience was our dog at that time, a dachshund named Otto. Another inspired addition to our family who required no manufacturers label as his entire attitude was one of aloof superiority and finest Germanic breeding. He was named after Otto Klemperer, a very famous German-born Jewish conducter and composer. Given a pince-nez, baton and tuxedo he would certainly have looked the part. It may however have been a bad choice of names as our sometimes faithful hound promptly deserted me for the sanctuary of the shade provided by the garden shed, safely out of earshot, some 300 meters away. I suspect he was tone deaf and probably did not have a single shred of musical appreciation in his entire half meter. Better to stay cool in the shade and to listen to his rumbling digestive juices as his share of the Christmas turkey went slowly south. To this very day, I still wonder if Neil Armstrong was ever aware that his historical step, on that July day in 1969, onto the Sea of Tranquility would but a few short months later, be eclipsed by the ascension of a meteoric rising star from a sunburnt dusty paddock in southern Victoria. His Eagle had landed, mine had only just taken off, shrouded in a nimbus of the scent of freshly cut Summer grass, the cacophony of evening crickets and yes indeed the accompanying overture of my ongoing heavenly serenade.
If I had only known then, that by my middle years, I would be living and working in Germany and that all my illusions of this perfectionist society would lie shattered and crumpled at my feet like the hastily discarded festive wrapping from my beloved harmonica. Had I been clairvoyant I may not have been so assuredly smug on that portentous Christmas Day back in 1969 and maybe, just maybe, Mr Armstrong may never have felt his moment of fame being so clearly erroded by a back country upstart with a solitary dog for an audience.
27.11.08
Menus Served On My Latest Trip to Bayern
8th November 2008 – 1300hrs
Königshof Restaurant
This award-winning restaurant defines elegant dining. From the moment you enter the restaurant, you sense the unrestrained dedication to elevated service and gastronomy.
Chef de cuisine Martin Fauster begins each day by sourcing the finest, freshest local ingredients, then crafting his menu to reflect the flavours that best capture the moment.
His commitment and inventiveness has earned the Königshof Restaurant a Michelin Star and 18 points in Gault Millau.
Entrée
Jakobsmuscheln auf cremigen Blumenkohl
Grilled and marinated Scallops with creamed Cauliflower and Pine Nuts
Served with:
2006 – Rully Les Cailloux Domaine P.Y. Colin Morey – Chardonnay
These wines have the colour of pure white gold, seductive aromas of citrus fruits, almonds and broom and an elegant taste with hints of fruits and flowers. The parcel "Les Cailloux" is one of the best of the appellation.
Main
Medaillon vom Reh mit Zwetschgen – Gänseleberpovesen
Medallion of Venison with Plum-Goose Liver Povesen and Poppy Seed
Served with:
2004 – Chateau La Serre St.Emilion Grand Cru
This variety of Red Bordeaux Blend is a blend using any or all of the five traditional Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.
Dessert
Knuspriger Kaffeepudding mit Quitten und schwarzen Nüssen
Crusty Chocolate-Coffee Pudding with black Chestnuts and Quince and Raisin Icecream
Served with:
2006 – „Opitz One“ Zweigelt Schilfwein- Beerenauslese Weingut W. Opitz – Neusiedlersee
This dessert wine made from indigenous Zweigelt grapes was awarded "Wine of the Month" for June. It is dried on straw mats exposed to prevailing winds, from vine yards that yield only 7 hectolitres of juice per hectare of vine yard. Willi likes to compare with Yquem's 28hl/ha or so. It has a gorgeous, pure, strawberry and rose-hip nose, with some plump sultana notes and a certain mineral quality that is quite schisty and earthy. On the palate it is smooth and silky-textured, with a broad palate of raspberry and blackberry fruit, very refined tannins and that schisty, mineral acidity always present and adding a savoury grip despite the sweetness from 200g of residual sugar. This flagship wine is the Zweigelt straw wine „Opitz One“, which was named with reference to the famous Californian wine Opus One; a special bottling of this is called “Mr. President” and is served at the White House..
Seehotel Überfahrt – Rottach–Egern - Bayern
8th November 2008 – 1930hrs
Restaurant „Egerner Bucht“
Mixed Entrees
Auswahl von Blatt und angemachten Salaten mit vershiedenen Dressings.
Selection of salad leaf and mixed salads with various dressings
Frische Fin de Claire mit Zitrone, Schalottenvinaigrette und Chesterbrot
Fresh shucked oysters with lemon, shalott vinaigrette and soda bread
Geräucherter Lachs, Frisch aufgeschnitten mit Dill – Senfsauce
Smoked salmon freshly carved with dill and mustard sauce
Bayrischer Hirschschinken mit Kürbischutney
Bayern smoked venison ham with pumpkin chutney
Bayrisher Aufschnitt mit Kartoffel – Gurkensalat
Bayern cold cut with potato and gherkin salad
Rucolasalat aus dem Parmesanlaib mit Pinienkernen
Rucola salad with parmesan shavings and pine nuts
Detrüffelte Kohlrabicremesuppe mit Thymiancroutons
Truffled crème of turnip soup with thyme croutons
Served with:
2007 Grauburgunder HEGER Oktav - Weingut Dr. Heger Kaiserstuhl
With this Grey Burgundy the grape is greyish but the flavours say “green” with kiwi, lime and honeydew melon notes accented by herbs.
Mains
Auf der hautgebratenes Steinbuttfilet auf Wurzelgemüse mit Stockfischravioli
Crisp skin Turbo fillet on root vegetables with dried cod ravioli
Medaillon vom Kalbsfilet auf Provenzialischen Gemüse mit Lorbeerkatoffeln
Medallions of veal fillet on provencal vegetables with bay leaf potatoes
Served with:
2005 Rosso Di Montalcino Lisini
Lisini’s 2005 Rosso di Montalcino is especially generous in this vintage. It reveals attractive notes of black cherries, wild herbs, menthol and smoke on a medium-bodied frame, with excellent length and lovely balance. It is a beautiful Rosso to drink now. The wine’s structured personality works best at the dinner table
Dessert
Karamellisierter Tonkabohneneisauflauf
Caramelised tonka bean ice cream cake
Alpenländische Käseauswahl mit Tessiner Feigensenf
Alpine cheese selection with Swiss fig mustard
Aperitif
Chateau du Breuil XO Calvados
Seehotel Überfahrt – Rottach–Egern - Bayern
9th November 2008 – 1930hrs
Gourmet Restaurant Überfahrt
The art of chef Christian Jürgens with 2 Stars Michelin
Apéritive:
Champagne Mailly Grand Cru mixed with a puree of Fragolino grapes and green apple.
Amuse Bouche - (Amusement for the mouth)
Served on a wire helix rack on 3 levels.

Cornet Filled with Creamy Mackerel Tartar
Potato waffle with interwoven sardine
Cracker topped with Antipasti
and

Brioche topped with smoked ham /prosciutto and celery foam. Perhaps the best celery aroma I have ever tasted.
Christian’s Fischsuppe mit Krebsen
Gelierte Fischsuppe mit Sauce Rouille and Basilikum Pesto
Jellied fish soup with scampi on rouille sauce and basil pesto.

Jakobsmuscheln & Blumenkohl
Jakobsmuscheln und Blumenkohl auf Kapern und Rosinen
Scallops with Cauliflower on a Caper and Raisin jus

Kartoffelkiste & Ei
Gefüllte Kartoffelkiste auf Trüffelmousseline mit Perigord Trüffel
Filled potato box on truffel mouseline and shaved perigord truffel over.
This is Christian Jürgen’s signature dish which is a which is a steamed potato box filled with egg yolk, fried for 9 seconds to crisp the outside and warm the egg yolk then set on a truffles mousseline. When one cuts opens the box the soft egg mixes gently with the mousseline creating a nothing but yummy taste in the mouth. Over the years Jürgens seems to have perfected this dish. It now has exactly the right proportion of every element. What a technical masterpiece!

Served with:
2006 - Vernacchia di San Gimignano Trabusti – Toskana Italy
A minor white-wine grape of ancient origin grown in the Tuscany region of Italy. Traditionally used to produce dry white wines that need to age at least a couple of years to mellow. Also used to create sweet golden white wines. The colour is pale straw yellow with hints of green. The Aroma is refined, intense and fruity. The taste is dry, pleasantly fresh but soft and balanced, with toasted almonds. This wine is well suited to seafood, especially shellfish, as well as light meat dishes.
Main:
Hirschkalb
Oberbayrischer Hirschkalbrücken mit Preiselbeer – Pfeffersauce
Deer calf fillet with a cranberry and pepper sauce

Served with:
2004 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Salcheto, Toskana, Italiano
A selection of grapes from the older and best-exposed vine yards. It undergoes long maceration, pumping over at the beginning and then crushing and delestage - all at a controlled temperature. It is aged in Slavonian oak barrels and Allier barriques. Deep ruby color, with black reflections. Hits the nose with mineral aromas, followed by a defined scent of cherry and withered violet. Full-bodied with silky and firm tannins. Very elegant on the palate. Perfect with roast meats and meat sauces.
Dessert:
Zitrone
Amalfi Zitrone kandiert and gefüllt
Candied Amalfi lemon filled with vanilla ice cream and mousse and sprinkled with sea salt

Zitrone and a pre-dessert refesher of chilled pineapple soaked in campari
Pastisserie
A selection of cakes and tortes from the trolley followed by coffee and pralines

Served with:
2005 Saarburger Rausche Riesling Auslese Geltz – Zilliken, Mosel
A very pale, lemon yellow wine with a typical green tinge. The nose is fairly simple, with exuberant yet steely lime fruit, although perhaps there are some notes of petrol coming through. The palate is bitingly fresh, with sharp, piercing acidity. This supports a good layer of blossom and lime cordial fruit, with a very clean, sweet, viscous texture. A truly marvelous dessert wine form the heart of the Saar Ruhr / Mosel.
Aperitif
SLYRS Single Malt Whisky 2004 Schliersee, Bayern, Deutschland
Fermentation in new oak barrels made from American White Oak with 225 liters volume.
Slyrs Bavarian Malt Whisky is produced in what might pass for a picture-postcard Scottish landscape, by a mountain lake near Munich.
The man behind the project, Florian Stetter, whose family firm has made schnapps and liqueurs for generations, got the idea of producing his own whisky after visiting Glenfiddich distillery in 1994.
Restaurant Notes:
Christian Jürgens – background
"Der Feinschmecker" voted him 2nd in the competition "Highest Mover of the Year 1998" thanks to his special commitment and creativity. His next success came in November 1998 when he was awarded a Michelin Star, only one year after having opened the restaurant. From 1999 until 2001 Mr. Jürgens wrote a column for a well-known daily newspaper on his „little cookery school” that was very popular with its readers.
In the jubilee edition of the magazine “Der Feinschmecker”, the restaurant “Am Marstall”, of which Christian Jürgens was both Head Chef and Managing Director, was awarded the title Restaurant of the Year 2000. The Aral Schlemmer-Atlas wrote about him: “We experienced a master performance at the highest level, the best possible expert preparation and a grandiose interplay of finest aromas” and awarded him four cutleries. The "Varta-Gourmet-Führer" awarded him two chef’s hats and thus made him one of the best twenty restaurants in Germany. „Besser Essen und Reisen“ awarded him two Gallic cockerels and made him one of the best thirty in their guide. The Gault Millau awarded him 16 points.
Christian Jürgens took over the entire culinary responsibility as the Head Chef at Burg Wernberg on 1.5.2001. The 30-room Relaix-Château luxury castle hotel includes a regional restaurant, one of the most modern conference centres in Europe and the gourmet restaurant “Kastell”. After only a short while, the "Kastell" was awarded two Varta chef hats, four cutleries in the Aral-Schlemmer-Atlas, 3 "F" in the Feinschmeker, 16 points in the Gault Millau and one Michelin Star. In 2002 the Feinschmecker awarded the restaurant „Kastell“ 3 ½ „F“ and the Varta Guide awarded it 2 of its coveted hats. In October 2002 the Aral-Schlemmer-Atlas evaluated the restaurant „Kastell” with 4 spoons and “arrow pointing up” and made Christian Jürgens the "Highest Mover of the Year 2003" out of a total of 3000 tested restaurants.
The biggest honour of his career up to this point was bestowed upon him on 27th of November 2002, when he was awarded the second Michelin Star! He was thus deemed to be one of the 17 best cooks in Germany and one of the 50 most successful cooks in Europe.
The “icing on the cake” was bestowed by the magazine “Die Bunte”, by catapulting the restaurant from 64th position the previous year to 17th place in 2002. The magazine “Capital” drew a conclusion of all of the year's evaluations in all guides at the end of 2002. It came to the result that Christian Jürgens was the shooting star in the cooking scene and put him in 18th place in their list of Germany’s best cooks.
In the 2007 ranking by the magazine “Der Feinschmecker” Christian Jürgens came in 9th in the list of the 10 best cooks in Germany and 1st in the list of the best country hotels.
















